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My Interview with Drake Silliman – a local Charleston History Tour Guide

Paul Attaway • Mar 22, 2022

How long have you been a tour guide? Three years with interruptions of several months to facilitate moving from the west coast and to avoid the summers here in Charleston. We had a vacation home here that had been the center of family reunions for several years. My wife, Wanda, was born in the South and when it came time for retirement in 2018, she wanted to return. I was more of a Western man, born in Nevada. My working life had been in California so I was ready for a different experience. The cultural and atmospheric change the South offered seemed a good fit. The American West doesn’t have the depth and breadth of history that Charleston does and so, on vacations I read extensively about Charleston history. 

To understand what Charleston contributed to the American Experience, how and why it happened, is to see that experience in all its glories and flaws. I studied that history on vacations and when we made the decision to move, in a bit of serendipity, I took the city test to become a licensed Tour Guide. At the time it was required of any guide, carriage or walking. My years of vacation reading paid off and I passed the first time. Little did I realize that passing the test was simply the tip of a very large iceberg of historic knowledge and related lessons that could take the rest of my natural life, if I wanted.

What did you have to do to become a tour guide? Tour guides for the Carriage trade in Charleston must pass a 200-question test administered by the City by 80% to gain a license. It takes about 2 hours to complete. Due to a recent lawsuit, that license isn’t mandatory. The Carriage and other Walking Tour companies have voluntarily maintained that requirement as a way to guarantee a minimal standard for Tour Guides.  I then applied to Old South Carriage Company. After you’re engaged by a carriage company, there will be about 3 to 6 weeks of training with horse and carriage until you’re cut loose on the city by yourself. 

In my arrogance of passing the test so easily, I boldly predicted I would be ready in 2 weeks. It took every second of 6 weeks of training until I was ready to drive the horses, keep the clients safe, and give a tour at the same time. And even then, in the beginning, I wasn’t very good.

How often do you guide tours? I’ll work between 2 and 5 days a week. I’ll give between 3 and 5 tours in a normal shift. My record is 9 tours in a 10-hour period. That was a long day.

There are a total of 10 possible Carriage tours in 5 tour zones as defined by the city. The City of Charleston will give a carriage a permit to enter a zone at a particular point and exit at a particular point, based on a lottery. In between, the carriage can do as it pleases within the zone. There are restricted streets for safety or privacy concerns. The permit is good for 70 minutes. Failure to abide by the City’s requirements can result in draconian fines to the driver.


Tell us a little bit about yourself. For instance, where were you born? How long have you lived in Charleston? What did you do before moving here? What do you and your wife, Wanda, enjoy doing? As I said before, I was born in Nevada and spent most of my working life in California. I had a good career in the movie industry as a Picture Editor working with some of the biggest names in movies and TV. The essence of that job is to connect individual bits of information into a narrative that is dramatic and emotionally compelling. The personalities were sometimes temperamental and tyrannical and at times brilliant and insightful. I suppose that was good training for being a Tour Guide. 

When retirement came, my wife, Wanda, wanted to return to the South. Some part of me will always be a Western man, an outsider. My favorite quote about the Western desert is from Wilfred Thesiger “No man can live this life and emerge unchanged. He will carry, however faint, the imprint of the desert, the brand which marks the nomad; and he will have within him the yearning to return, weak or insistent according to his nature. For this cruel land can cast a spell which no temperate clime can match.”. 

But to appreciate, you must have contrast, and so, we moved from a place that is determined by the lack of water to a place that is determined by an overabundance of water. 

As a retired couple, we have the luxury of not having to spend the summers in Charleston. My part of Show Business didn’t travel much so we hope to make up for that now. We have several trips on our wish list for the summers. We look forward to travel to various parts of Europe to work on our high school French, Spanish, and German. I also think that January will be a good time to be gone from Charleston, once Covid is over. We have a new house, but we still don’t have a garden plan. Wanda enjoys gardening. 

We are still new to the area but look forward to the water sports and the unique cultural events that are available. I will miss snow skiing, but I might take up shooting again. We started continued education as senior citizens at the College of Charleston. I’m expanding my historic knowledge of this unique town constantly through lectures and research. 


When you look at the history of Charleston, is there a particular time period or aspect of its’ history that you are drawn to more than others? It’s like choosing a favorite child. Charleston was pivotal in many chapters of our history but, coming from a place with only recent history, I’d have to say the colonial period is most interesting to me. The early days of the Colonies and how they grew in such a hostile environment, what they valued and why, the foresight, and bravery (and yes, the selective blindness) of those founding fathers of civilization and government is astounding. It’s remarkable partially because they weren’t living an easy life in the intellectual centers of Europe when they evolved our unique “American Experience” that became a sea change for humanity. 


What do you do to keep in shape, so to speak, with your knowledge of the City? Weekly visits to the main library on Calhoun Street are a must. The SC History room is staffed by rabid history geeks that get their joy in life by running down ideas and connecting historic relationships. Mark Jones has a Facebook page that gives a “This day in Charleston History” reference that is always fun. Mark has written 9 books on Charleston including “Wicked Charleston”. The City makes the occasional lecture available to Tour Guides for ongoing education.


If a history buff was visiting Charleston for the first time, and they only had time to see or do three things, what would you recommend? I’m a big fan of Drayton Hall. It is a “preservation” site and as such, hasn’t been “restored”. So, the window trim may be original from the 1730’s and the ceiling may be from the 1880’s. You are looking at history in the raw. There are a lot of poignant moments in American history that happened on those grounds. 


Any history buff would love to stand where General Beaurgard stood and gave the signal to start the bombardment of Fort Sumter. That can be done at the Edmonston-Alston house on East Battery. It’s a wonderfully “restored” museum home with most of its original furniture including pieces borrowed and never returned from the Drayton’s whose townhouse was next door. 

I don’t want to be too pedestrian, but the City of Charleston Museum is the oldest museum in the New World and would give one an extensive overview of our history. And, as I like to point out to tourists with little ones, children can get lost in there for hours!! (And lunch on King Street is a half block away…just say’n.)


Have you ever had a supposed history expert on a tour that challenged you? Misinformation and myth are plentiful in Charleston so I offer a $10 prize, per incident, to anyone that can prove I’ve said something that isn’t true. However, I require that the challenger put up $10 also. (jokes don’t count). That sorts out the “ribbon clerks”, as they say. 


That being said, I’ve had many clients that have added to my knowledge in a detail or a relevant bit of information that I didn’t have. One day, I had a Civil Engineer that gave me 10 minutes on why the earthquake reinforcement bars don’t work. I always make it available for anyone to correct my French pronunciation. 


A few times people will offer myth or misinformation that they had heard elsewhere. Correction is a delicate thing. You must assume, they believed what they said and offered it with the best intentions. 


Has how you see the world changed over the years as a result of what you have learned as a tour guide? I’d like to think that it has added more tolerance to my view of the world. As we get older, I think most people see the wisdom of forgiveness and tolerance in the world. To be pressed to study, in detail, triumphs and disasters of people that were so important to our evolution as a country and then having to actively find ways to communicate it clearly, with humor and insight, in a short time, burns it into the psychic. You can’t ignore what you see in history, for good or evil.


If someone wanted to book you for a tour, how can they reach you?


Walking tours of 90 minutes or more are available. 

Email or phone is best. 


Email: BLDHORSE@aol.com

Phone: 818-952-9571


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This week the U.S. Open returns to The Country Club in Baseline, Massachusetts, and it seems fitting as recent events in the world of professional golf have highlighted what it means to be a professional golfer and launched conversations as to why we love and play the game. It seems fitting because in 1913, twenty-year old amateur Francis Ouimet [1] , shocked the world beating the best in the game at The Country Club to become the first amateur and only the second American to win the US Open, a tournament that had been played since 1895, and in the process wrote chapter one of the story in this country of what it means to be a professional athlete. Last week, the upstart tour, LIV, hosted its first tournament. The tour is underwritten by the Saudi Sovereign Wealth Fund which means the players are being paid by Mohammed bin Salman Al Saud, MBS to his friends, the Crown Prince of Saudi Arabia. This blog post is not about the propriety of accepting pay from the ruler of an authoritarian nation, not that the questions surrounding the payor and his motives aren’t important or worthy of discussion, but because that’s not what I want to write about today. No, today, I’ve been thinking about the essence of competition, what we love about it and how it plays out in the game of golf specifically. The Spirit of Competition From the game’s inception, money has been wagered on the outcome and the primary form of competition is what we call match play. The winner is the player who wins the most holes regardless of the total score at the end of the round. In match play there’s only one winner. Match play is still the most popular form of competition. At public and private courses around the country today amateurs playing weekend golf are likely to wager with friends using a match play format. Even today, a Scottish town may have one public golf course, but it could have had multiple private golf clubs all sharing the same course, and from the earliest days, these clubs would host tournaments, each club putting up their best players against the other clubs’ best. Further, it was not uncommon for the members of a club to send their best to a neighboring town to play a match or series of matches against a team sponsored by another club. The winner might receive a jacket, a cup, trophy, or medal of some sort. In some cases, a small cash prize would be paid, the money for which had been collected from the club’s membership. Membership in these clubs was typically reserved for the wealthiest, people who could spend the time required to master the game. Often, the club would send their head pro to compete for the club. In those cases, the membership would cover the player’s travel expenses. The point being, though, there was only winner; no second place. The Spirit of the Game and the Professional Golfer In the late 1800s and early 1900s, many of the world’s top golfers were amateurs and the professional golfer was the club pro who made his living as the head professional at a private club. His duties would have included making clubs and giving lessons. When Francis Ouimet won the US Open in 1913, nearly every golf professional was an employee of a private club and frankly they were looked down on as second-class citizens. As the game of golf exploded in this country following Francis Ouimet’s victory and the prospects of someone making a living playing tournament materialized, much was written about the beauty and purity of the amateur playing for the love of the game as contrasted with the professional who plays for money. Buried in these words is a fair amount of class-based elitism. Amateurs competing on the world stage at the time were wealthy men who could afford to join private clubs and take hours off to play the game each week. Simply stated, they looked down on working-class people and that’s what a professional was, working class. That’s all the more reason why Francis Ouimet’s victory was so shocking; he was an amateur for sure, but he was poor and from a working-class family. He was not your traditional, wealthy amateur. The arrogance of the guardians of the game was on full display when in 1916 the USGA stripped Francis Ouimet of his amateur status because they concluded he was profiting off his fame by using it to promote the success of his sporting goods store. A few years later, in response to an outpouring of support for Ouimet, the USGA quietly reversed its decision. (Francis Ouimet continued to compete as an Amateur and won the US Amateur Championship in 1931.) While elitism still exists today throughout our culture, in the game of golf, the professional reigns supreme. The attitude towards the professional golfer began to change in the 1930s and 1940s and the great amateur Bobby Jones was instrumental in that change. Around this time, a yearlong tournament schedule was developed, and it became possible for a player to make a living travelling the country playing tournament golf. Match play gave way to stroke play as the dominant form of competition as TV became a larger presence and it was deemed that stroke play was an easier format around which to develop a television audience. For the tour to survive, however, players must have a realistic chance of making enough money even if they don’t win. So, today, a purse is divided up amongst the top finishers at a tournament. But still, the better you play, the more you make. So, while you no longer need to place first to win money, the spirit of the competition was still there. Furthermore, there was no guaranteed money. Often, you had to qualify on a Monday to play in the tournament and then if you did, you had to make the cut after the first two days if you were to make any money. Yes, the spirit of competition survived. Now don’t get me wrong. I know how much money the top players make today; they’re not struggling to survive, but they had to work hard, and they earned their money by winning regularly. Nevertheless, the tour can be grueling because if you don’t make the cut after the Thursday and Friday rounds, you don’t get paid and then you move on to the next tournament, often the very next week. The PGA Tour does provide a pension for its members. However, your payout is a function of what you put in: the number of tournaments you play, the number of cuts you make, the number of Wednesday Pro-Ams you play, and how well you do in the tournaments, for instance. In other words, the better you perform, the more you make. I haven’t even touched on what it takes to become a PGA Tour Member. The competition is intense. Playing for more than just money But the PGA Tour and European Tour player is also playing for more than just money. They are playing for their place in history. Great tradition surrounds many of the stops on these tours. And then there are the Majors: The Open, The US Open, the PGA Championship and The Masters. Finally, two of the most pressure packed events are the Ryder Cup and the Presidents Cup, biannual tournaments played between the best players from the United States against the best European players and the best players from the rest of the world, respectively. There are no cash prizes at these two events. Just pride, national pride. Although golf is a solitary game – you against the course or you against another player or the field – and it might appear as if you are only playing for yourself, I don’t think that’s the case. From the earliest days, golfers played for their town or their club. Today, weekend golfers put together bets by which your foursome is playing another foursome. Professional golfers today compete for their country in the Olympics, the Ryder Cup and the Presidents Cup. Even PGA Members who when tournaments seemingly for themselves are elevating the stature of the PGA Tour which benefits not just themselves but their fellow Tour members. The LIV Tour So, what to make of the LIV Tour? Last weekend, the LIV hosted its first tournament and the field of 48 players included a few big names such as Dustin Johnson and a host of names that only the most ardent golf fan would have recognized. The players were paid to join the tour and last place at the event earned $120,000. At the Canadian Open being played at the same time, five players tied for 48 th place and each one took home $22,567. If you missed the cut that week then you made nothing. The Canadian Open has been played since 1904 and former winners include: Walter Hagen, Sam Snead, Byron Nelson, Arnold Palmer, Lee Trevino, Nick price, Jim Furyk, and Tiger Woods. Jack Nicklaus has seven runner-up finishes at The Canadian Open. On the LIV Tour, you get paid to show up, win or lose. Who cares? I guess we’re supposed to be impressed by the great play. I love golf but am the first to admit that I rarely watch it on TV beyond the majors, which, by the way, are acknowledged as minor national holidays in our household. I watch the majors because of the tradition, the history, and the stakes other than the money. Yes, I watch because they are the best players in the world but also because they are putting themselves out there. They eat what they kill. And simply stated, some tournaments just mean more than others. The competition on the PGA Tour and the European Tour is real. The nerves are real. Especially at the Ryder Cup and Presidents Cup. How can I get excited about watching folks play golf when they can finish dead last and still get paid and would have already been paid just for foregoing another tour? Independent Contractors, they say The players that have fled the PGA and European Tours for the safety of the LIV Tour make a lot of noise about being independent contractors and claim that means they should be able to do what they want. Yes, members of the PGA Tour are independent contractors and, yes, they are contractually obligated to enter a minimum number of tournaments each year, but I wonder if Dustin Johnson and Phil Mickelson are independent contractors anymore. We’ve read that Mickelson was paid $200 million to join LIV. Was he wired this money in one lump sum a few weeks ago or will it be paid out over time? I have a feeling it will be paid out over time and that he is obligated to play in the tournaments and promote the LIV Tour. Sounds to me more like he’s an employee of Mohammad bin Salman. The PGA has suspended Phil. I wonder what MBS will do if Phil decides to stop playing in his tournaments? For the love of the game In 1913, an amateur shocked the golf world. The romance of playing purely for the love of the game gave way to the reality that only a handful of people could spend their lives playing golf without a financial care in the world and room for the professional was accommodated. With the ascendency of the professional, an amateur hasn’t challenged the top players since the days of Bobby Jones but that’s okay. When I watch the world’s best golfers competing to win a trophy on a famous course that was previously won by Walter Hagen, Jack Nicklaus, or Ben Hogan for instance, I see players playing not just for the money but for the love of the game and for their place in history. I’m heading to the driving range now. I’m playing tomorrow, and in my foursome, we will throw balls up on the first tee to determine teams and then compete in a $20 Nassau. Second place gets nothing! [1] The story was immortalized by Mark Frost in his book, The Greatest Game Ever Played: Harry Vardon, Francis Ouimet, and the Birth of Modern Golf and popularized by the movie The Greatest Game Ever Played, based on the book.
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